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Slow Food Gathers Pace In Britain
By Heather Hay French
12/06
There was much excitement in the pretty Shropshire market
town of Ludlow when it was announced that the first British headquarters of
the international Slow Food movement would open there in December 2006. It
is stamp of approval for a town long considered the country's Slow Food
capital: it is already home to the UK branch of Cittąslow, the 'slow town'
network. Every year, thousands of 'foodies' visit Ludlow's annual festival
(September 7-9, 2007) to enjoy artisan chocolate, English wine, ales and
cheeses from the area and fascinating 'Taste' workshops. All year round, the
town's three bakeries, four butchers, delis and restaurants offer fine local
fare.
Slow Food originated in Italy but the British have taken to
it in a big way. Last October, there were more than 60 British producers at
Salone del Gusto - a biennial showcase of Slow Food producers held in Turin.
Created to counteract the onslaught of 'fast' food, Slow
Food is all about supporting artisan producers and safeguarding traditional
regional specialities. Open to anyone with an interest in good food, the
organisation, created in 1989, has spread worldwide with 80,000 members.
Convivia, regional groups of Slow Food members, are now being formed all
over the UK. They are actively supporting and protecting local specialities
and heritage varieties of grains, fruit, vegetables and livestock, all using
environmentally sensitive methods: the end result is some of the country's
finest fare for both locals and visitors.
There are many Slow Foods to enjoy in Britain today; the
following are just a few of the best outlets to look out for as you travel
around.
True Perry, a unique drink made from heritage varieties of
perry pears, has been a speciality of the West Midlands of England for over
400 years and is now supported by a Slow Food Praesidium - a local
initiative to raise awareness of the product, safeguard its biodiversity and
maintain traditional skills. This delicious drink is made by a small number
of craft producers in the counties of Gloucester, Herefordshire,
Monmouthshire and Worcestershire. Look for it in pubs and farm shops in the
area, or visit one of the local cider and perry events to meet the
producers.
About a hundred miles north-eastwards, Slow Food flavours of
Derbyshire are showcased at the Soul Deli Café and Restaurant in Derby.
Their specialities include burgers made from local rare breed beef, pasta
with freshly picked field mushrooms and smoked salmon from the Derbyshire
Smokery in the heart of the Peak District National Park. Owned by a Slow
Food member it's a cornucopia of local, seasonal, real food and their deli
stocks everything for the ultimate picnic.
The Michelin starred Raymond Blanc's le Manoir aux
Quat'Saisons at Great Milton in Oxfordshire is one of the UK's top
restaurants and a venue for Slow Food events. Raymond has long been a
passionate supporter of the movement, helping promote its message and
importance. His vegetable garden at Le Manoir has full organic status and
its produce makes the shortest possible journey from 'field to plate', in
true Slow Food style.
In North-West England and the Lake District county of
Cumbria, Peter Gott farms wild boar and rare breed pigs at Sillfield Farm.
He produces wild boar air-dried salami, sausages and pies, dry-cured bacon
and traditional Cumberland sausage. His products combine all that's best in
artisan food production and small-scale agriculture. Taste how special
Sillfield Farm products are on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday at The Market
Hall in Barrow-in-Furness, or Thursday, Friday and Saturday at Borough
Market, London. (Borough Market, near the South Bank of the Thames in
Southwark, is a must for all food lovers in the capital.)
The resort of Morecambe, Lancashire offers breathtaking
views across the bay to the Lake District -- and a local delicacy, Morecambe
Bay Potted Shrimps. A great favourite with the Victorians, local brown
shrimps, cooked in butter and spices have a unique flavour and are still
produced by hand, to an original recipe. The little pots of seafood can be
found in restaurants and delis around Lancashire. Furness Fish from
Ulverston in Cumbria bring stacks of pots every week to Borough Market and
sell them from their fish and game stand.
His Royal Highness Prince Charles supports Slow Food to the
extent that he's given speeches on the subject. Visitors to the Scottish
Highlands can share his pleasure in it, locally caught and freshly cooked by
enjoying, as he has, seared King Prawns and King Scallops straight from the
local fishing boats and cooked to order by the Fish and Chip Van on the
Fisherman's Pier, Tobermory, a picturesque harbour on the Isle of Mull.
Every Saturday dozens of local food and drink producers make
their way to Edinburgh Castle for the Farmers' Market. There's everything
for the perfect picnic with the pure taste of Slow Food: heather honey from
nearby moors and hand made floury baps - soft rolls - to go with it; locally
caught, and cooked, lobster in season, fresh, crisp salads, pure apple juice
and mouth-watering confectionery.
In North Wales, locals and visitors alike look forward to
October, when the annual Gwledd Conwy Feast held in Conwy, a medieval walled
town dominated by its 13th century castle. A speciality here is Bara Brith,
a spicy fruit bread made to a traditional recipe, plus other delights such
as find oak smoked nuts, seasalt and real ales, while chef master-classes
and music are other attractions.
Back in England, the exceptional quality of native
Colchester oysters was, according to legend, one of the reasons the Romans
invaded Britain. Richard Haward's family have been harvesting the gourmet
shellfish from marsh-fringed creeks by Mersea Island in Essex since 1792.
Visit the Colchester Oyster Festival in June, or enjoy oysters in one of the
many good fish restaurants in the area. If you're feeling adventurous take
your own bread and drinks to Richard's wife Heather's fish shop, The Company
Shed, and buy some of her fabulous seafood and native oysters to go with
them.
A delicacy in the West Country, Cornish pilchards are
another traditional Slow Food speciality. They have been a local delicacy
for 400 years and exported to Italy since 1550 where they're known as 'Salacche
Inglesi'. To make them requires traditional skills, they are prepared, as
they have always been, using screw presses, and if you want to buy lots of
them they can still be layered in oak barrels. The Pilchard Works at Newlyn
in Cornwall is the last remaining producer of salted pilchards and you can
buy their produce from local shops or order direct.
No feature on Slow Food would be complete without mentioning
British cheese. The Bourne family has been making award winning Cheshire
cheeses for more than a hundred years and it's still produced in the
traditional 'hands-on' way, using the milk from their own herd of pedigree
Holstein Friesian cows. There's creamy white, crumbly mature Cheshire; a
delicately streaked blue, and deeply flavoured Oak Smoked. They sell their
cheese at Borough Market, London, Liverpool Farmers' Market, and, if you
phone them first, direct from the farm.
Cheddar cheese is famous all over the world - and made,
often in great bulk, in many different countries. But you can still enjoy
the flavour of the original cheeses: artisan Cheddars are made in the rich
dairy pastures around Cheddar, Somerset. Each cheese weighs between 50 and
60 pounds, is bandaged in muslin and aged for at least 11 months to have a
unique depth of flavour - a magic blend of caramel, hazelnuts and herbs. Ask
for them by name, Westcombe, Montgomery's and Kenne's Cheddars have a depth
of flavour and subtlety to savour.
Mouth-watering news on food and drink in Britain, including
trails and forthcoming events, can be found on VisitBritain's website
http://www.visitbritain.com/taste.
Organisations and locations mentioned in the feature
Article provided by
VisitBritain
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